| "The aquarium represents not
only the most beautiful, but also the most educational and
multi-faceted activity," said Kaspar Horst, author of "My
First Aquarium".
Owning an aquarium is not just about feeding
your fishes well and changing the water frequently, you should
also consider many other aspects such as the temperature,
acidity, conductivity, light, oxygen, hardness of the water,
etc.
You should also monitor the water quality
regularly so that fishes will not be subjected to stress and
fish-diseases will be prevented. In this page, we will be
exploring the conditions of managing an aquarium.
First of all, the quality of the water in
an aquarium is as important to fishes, as the air you breathe
is to you. Even more so, because these life forms have to
rely on you, the owner of the aquarium. |
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| Click below for some information on the living condition required
for fishes. |
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| Testing & Water Quality |
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The only way for you to know how good or
bad the water quality really is, is by testing it on a regular
basis, and keeping notes of the results in a diary.
Testing and keeping records is important
in a basic reef aquarium. Moreover, keeping records will enable
you to monitor on how your tank "behaves". Any deviation in
water quality parameters will be detected, as you will be
able to refer to previous readings.
The most important test on your aquarium
are pH, dissolved oxygen, ammonia and nitrite. Other tests
that can be monitored are conductivity, temperature, hardness,
nitrate, phosphate, residual ozone (if you are using an ozonizer),
iron (if you keep macro-algae and fertilize), copper and total
chorine.
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| Click for a detailed explanation
on these parameters... |
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pH |
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| pH is a unit of measure that describes
the degree of acidity or alkalinity of a solution. It is measure
on a scale of 0 to 14. Technically, pH is defined as the negative
logarithms of the hydrogen ion activity or concentration.
pH = -log[H+]
The value of pH 7.0 represents neutrality.
Below pH 7.0 is acid and above 7.0 is alkaline.
Most of the fish species are happy in water
within a range of pH 6.0 to 7.5, but others need water maintained
to an even more exact specification. General conditions within
the tank, and particularly the level of carbon dioxide, have
an effect on the water's pH levels. This makes it even more
important that you monitor the water carefully, since a sudden
shift in pH, even a small one, may represent a danger to aquarium
life. This is especially true in soft, acid-water tanks where
there are more hydrogen ions present than in hard water.
In a well-planted tank, where there is a
substantial uptake of carbon dioxide and nitrate by the plants,
hydrogen ions will be steadily used up. So there will be an
increase in pH, unless you take steps to replenish carbon
dioxide levels. In an aquarium that contains poor, or scant
plant growth, however, the trend is towards a rise in potentially
harmful nitrate levels and a decline in the levels of both
pH and alkalinity.
Are you still
measuring pH with litmus paper? Do you realise that this old
method is INACCURATE and INEFFICIENT?
It's time to change to use Trans' high performance, lightweight,
pocket size and digital ECO
pH Plus tester. This compact tester is easy to use. Just
turn it on and dip into sample solution.
For continue monitoring the pH value in the
aquarium tank, install AquaSentry-1,
a non-stop pH/Temperature Display monitor.
Commercial adjusters, or buffers, which are
based on sodium acid phosphate to increase acidity and sodium
bicarbonate to increase alkalinity can be use to maintain
the required pH range, should the need arises after testing.
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| Conductivity |
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Conductivity is a measure of water's ability
to conduct an electrical current, which is dependent on the
concentration of minerals in the water. The unit used in measuring
water conductivity is called the 'Microsiemens' (µS)
for water of low salt content. For water rich in salt content,
the Millisiemens (mS) is used.
1 mS = 1000 µS
Conductivity measures the total salt minerals
present in water and individual salt cannot be differential.
Nevertheless, a useful rule of thumb is:
Conductivity in
µS = 2 (Dissolved solids in ppm of NaCI)
Water's salt content is vital for successful
breeding of many fish. The salt content exerts a decisive
influence on the fish eggs' osmotic pressure i.e. the pressure
existing between the inner and outer solution. This results
in the egg's ability to expand or to contract when confronted
with unaccustomed salt conditions. Expansion and contraction
of the egg can destroy its ability to develop.
Are you still
measuring dissolved mineral in water using a hydrometer?
A conductivity tester or meter can give higher accuracy
and detect changes that are too small to register on a hydrometer
yet important in an aquarium that requires very stable condition,
such as a breeding aquarium or nursery.
Trans's Senz
µSiemen is a self-contained, digital pocket size
conductivity meter with cell and automatic temperature compensator.
It provides quick and accurate reading. All you need to do
is to turn the tester on and dip into sample solution. Any
irregularities of the conductivity can be corrected by adding
water.
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| Dissolved
Oxygen |
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Oxygen is vital to the life cycle of aquarium
inhabitants. It is essential to maintaining the species of
animals kept in the aquarium and for the aerobic bacterial
necessary for the proper functioning of a closed aquarium
system. A minimum concentration of 4 mg/L dissolve oxygen
is adequate for most aquarium populations.
Many factors affect the dissolved oxygen
content of water and frequent test for dissolved oxygen is
most important. Temperature affects the oxygen-holding capacity
of water. As the temperature increases, the amount of dissolved
oxygen decreases.
With Trans's WalkLAB Digital Dissolved Oxygen meter,
oxygen measurement can now be made in situ. There is no need
of a sampling device and a flask to retain water in its natural
state for later analysis in the laboratory. The meter has
high performance, good repeatability and high accuracy. It
measures 0 to 20 mg/l.
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| Temperature |
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Fish have upper and lower limits of temperature
tolerance and temperature above or below this range result
in stress. A sudden temperature change may lower disease resistance
of fish and increase their susceptibility to infections.
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| Hardness |
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Hardness originally referred to the ability
of water to precipitate soap. The precipitation is largely
a function of the concentration of calcium and magnesium in
the water. Ions of several metals and the hydrogen ion may
cause the precipitation. Hardness has now come to mean the
total concentration of calcium and magnesium ions expressed
in terms of part per million (ppm) of calcium carbonate. |
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| classification |
ppm
of calcium carbonate |
| soft water |
Below 50 |
| Medium Soft water |
50 - 100 |
| Slightly Hard water |
100 - 200 |
| Moderately Hard water |
200 - 300 |
| Hard water |
300 - 540 |
| Very Hard Water |
Above 540 |
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Calcium and magnesium are important nutrients
for aquatic plants. For planted aquarium tank it is better
to have slight hard water of 150 - 200 ppm. Most fish will
do quite well in slightly to moderately hard water but for
development of the eggs, it is critical to have soft to medium
soft water. |
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| Nitrite |
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Fish release urine and excrement as other living organism
does. In their natural habitat these "waste products"
are quickly washed away or broken down. In the aquarium,
this task is left to the bacteria which are essential in
the process. However in the freshly equipped tank, the bacteria
do not yet inhabit or not sufficient.
The break-down of the waste process follows a sequence:
urea - ammonium/ammonia - nitrite - nitrate (as the end
product). The intermediate stages ammonia and nitrite are
toxic to fish in small quantities. You therefore have to
be especially vigilant in the aquarium's early phase.
Nitrite levels of under 0.2 ppm are acceptable to most
fish. Levels above that indicate an abnormal break-down
of nitrite. If the nitrite levels is higher than 0.5ppm
the fish will die.
With new aquarium it is essential to closely watch the
fish on daily basis. If you notice them displaying an abnormal
behaviour, test the nitrite levels. Change the water if
the nitrite levels is 0.2 ppm and above.
Ammonia/ammonium level is depends largely on pH value.
The higher the pH value the more toxic ammonia, is produced
from ammonium. At pH 7 the total amount consists as non-toxic
ammonium. At pH 8.2 about 10% of the tested amount is toxic
ammonia, at pH 9 this percentage climbs to 50%. By maintaining
a nuetral pH level in aquarium the danger of ammonia is
removed.
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| Nitrate |
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Nitrate is a vital source of nutrition
for plants, but aquarium plant are by nature not accustomed
to large quantities of it. In natural environments, they survive
on very low levels of nitrogen in the form of ammonium and
a trace of nitrate. With high levels of nitrate in the tank,
the danger of attracting unwanted algae rise especially the
dreaded blue and beard algae which prefer to feed on nitrate. |
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| Oxygen
Reduction Potential |
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| Oxygen reduction potential (ORP) can be
used to indicate the oxygen level in water. ORP represents
the balance of electrons in water. Water with a high ORP is
of high quality, containing much surplus oxygen and complete
mineralization of all waste organic material. If the ORP is
too low, there is a chance that oxidation and mineralization
may not occur at all and the waste products accumulate to
become toxic substances.
A balance salt-water aquarium should have
a reading of between 350mV to 400mV. In freshwater aquarium
readings of 250mV are sufficient. Trans's Eco Redox is an ideal tool to measure
the ORP value. |
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| Lighting
In Aquarium |
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Lighting is one of the important areas
of concern for the home aquarist in ensuring a healthy, well-balanced
and flourishing aquarium. Plants are quite demanding in their
light requirements. Incorrect lighting may favour the growth
of certain undesirable algae at the expense of algae and plants
you want to encourage.
Types
of light
Human eye responds to aquarium lit with a yellow/green light
because it appears warmer and more appealing. Plants, however,
prefer the red/blue ends of the spectrum. Although some light
is absorbed in water, the average aquarium is not deep enough,
or normally cloudy enough, for this to make an appreciable
difference. Manufactures of lights have responded to the different
needs of aquarists by producing an extensive range of bulb
types and qualities.
Measuring
Light
Assessing the quantity of light without the aid of a light
meter is very subjective. You need a light meter to measure
the intensity accurately. Light from a particular source is
measured in lumens, but for the aquarist, it is more important
to know the amount of lumens per square meter or "lux" of
water surface area than simply the light's total output.
Light
requirements
The actual requirements of many aquatic plants vary tremendously:
some have evolved to grow in dim light, while others are habituated
to the full glare of an equatorial sun. Although many plants
are adaptable, nearly all have preferences for specific light
levels. Providing lighting levels outside of these tolerance
ranges for extended periods may adversely affect growth. |
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| Table: Lighting Suitability |
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| Appearance |
Intensity |
Suitable for |
| Subdued |
<500 lux |
Crytocoryne, Vesicularia |
| Moderate |
500 - 1,000 lux |
Anubias, Echinodorus, Nomophila, Sagittaria |
| Quite bright |
1,000 - 1,500 lux |
Bacopa, Ceratopteris, Egeria, Ludwigia |
| Bright |
>1,500 lux |
Cabomba, Hygrophila, Microsorium, Myriophyllum, Synnema,
Vallisneria |
| Very bright |
6,000 - 8,000 lux |
Anemones |
| Dazzling |
12,000 - 16,000 lux |
Macroalgae (e.g. Caulerpa) |
| Very dazzling |
15,000 - 20,000 lux |
Most corals (except for most red corals and sponges,
which prefer shade) |
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| Lighting Balance |
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As you can see for the table above, marine
organisms tend to prefer intense levels of light. Freshwater
plants, however, usually prefer light levels lower than those
of algae. The maximum rates of photosynthesis occur at 10
to 20,000 lux for many common species of vascular plant and
yet algae continue increasing until 35,000 lux (values that
actually inhibit plant growth). This means that excess illumination,
either from the aquarium lights or from sunlight, may favour
algae's growth over plant growth.
It is also important that you replicate the
natural diurnal period expected by fishes and plants, so light
the aquarium for only 10 to 16 hours per day. To avoid stressing
the fishes, never switch the lamps on and off suddenly; switch
off the aquarium lights a few minutes before turning off the
room light; and switch the room light on before the tank lights.
Some marine aquarists leave a low-wattage red light on the
tank all night. This is because in nature, marine fishes rarely
experience total darkness.
The standard level of fluorescent light required
is in the region of 0.016 to 0.022 watts per sq. cm (0.10
to 0.14 watts per sq. in). For marine tanks, an Actinic Blue
03 tube should accompany the fluorescent tube. For coral reef
tank, metal halide lamps are better than fluorescent. Use
as recommended by the manufacturer.
No sure of the measurements of your aquarium's
light? Now you can use Tran's AquaLiteCheck
tester. Not only does the meter has high performance,
good repeatability and high accuracy, there also has a wide
range of light measurements up to 50,000 Lux. |
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